Brief update: I am back from my day of climbing with Chris; got about 3 1/2 hours of climbing at Eldorado Canyon outside Boulder. Got to lead two pitches of great rock, just so beautiful.
I am camping at back country site #18 at Golden Gate Canyon State Park. I will be in the park all day tomorrow, running and hiking. Friday morning I may make an attempt at Dead Dog Coulior on Torrey's Peak before heading back to the park to pack up my tent and stuff and then head back to Denver.
Wednesday, May 30, 2012
Tuesday, May 29, 2012
"First of many"
3:15 AM: My alarm goes off. Warm in my bed, I silence it and ignore it for a second. But then it clicks: you're about to climb with Chris Warner; time to wake up!
I made it to Chris' house a few minutes past 4 AM, where we said our rather chipper hellos as I got introduced to Randy, a friend of Chris and another partner who would be joining us today. Introductions aside, we load the truck and go.
Our destination is Skywalker coulior on South Arapaho, a 13,300' peak in the Indian Range just outside of Golden, CO. In all of my planning, this had been my most-anticipated climb. And now, it was going to be the first climb I attempted since arriving.
We arrived at the 4th of July Trailhead in the Arapaho - Washington National Forest around 4:45 AM. The early start was necessary to minimize the risk of avalanche: as the sun warms the snow, it becomes increasingly unstable. Our approach was brisk, and soon enough we were at the foot of the coulior (a coulior is a gully in a mountainside, often used to describe ones with snow). We popped on our crampons, got our boots and crampons organized, and grabbed our ice tools!
The climbing was steep ice, consistent 30-40 degree slope, with sections that got steeper, especially as we neared the top out. The photo to the right is the view from about 1/2 way up, and the one below shows I and Randy working our way through the last few feet of the climb!
From there, we followed the ridge to the summit, arriving at 9 AM! Watch the video below to see what I saw.
Tomorrow, I'll be meeting back up with Chris for some roack climbing around Eldorado Canyon State Park. I'm taking the morning to move my stuff to my campsite: I'll be staying at Golden Gate Canyon State Park tomorrow and Thursday night.
I made it to Chris' house a few minutes past 4 AM, where we said our rather chipper hellos as I got introduced to Randy, a friend of Chris and another partner who would be joining us today. Introductions aside, we load the truck and go.
Our destination is Skywalker coulior on South Arapaho, a 13,300' peak in the Indian Range just outside of Golden, CO. In all of my planning, this had been my most-anticipated climb. And now, it was going to be the first climb I attempted since arriving.
We arrived at the 4th of July Trailhead in the Arapaho - Washington National Forest around 4:45 AM. The early start was necessary to minimize the risk of avalanche: as the sun warms the snow, it becomes increasingly unstable. Our approach was brisk, and soon enough we were at the foot of the coulior (a coulior is a gully in a mountainside, often used to describe ones with snow). We popped on our crampons, got our boots and crampons organized, and grabbed our ice tools!
The climbing was steep ice, consistent 30-40 degree slope, with sections that got steeper, especially as we neared the top out. The photo to the right is the view from about 1/2 way up, and the one below shows I and Randy working our way through the last few feet of the climb!
From there, we followed the ridge to the summit, arriving at 9 AM! Watch the video below to see what I saw.
Tomorrow, I'll be meeting back up with Chris for some roack climbing around Eldorado Canyon State Park. I'm taking the morning to move my stuff to my campsite: I'll be staying at Golden Gate Canyon State Park tomorrow and Thursday night.
Monday, May 28, 2012
Safely to CO, and adventures along the way!
So from KY I made it to Missouri, and spent a great night with Alex and his girlfriend. On the way to MO though, I stopped for lunch with Kathryn, my good friend from when I worked at a summer camp. Alex and I went from St. Louis to Columbia, MO on Friday, where Tera met up with us. After some good fun exploring the town and then later bowling, I was on my way Saturday morning for CO!
After the drive through Kansas, which was miserable (it really is as bad as everyone says...), I safely made it to Littleton, CO to stay with my uncle for a few days while I got organized. Below is a photo of my poor car after all the driving!I took Sunday to run from Littleton into Denver. Went into REI and talked up a few of their staff about climbing options. Walked out all psyched and with two new guidebooks!
Today, Monday, my uncle Gordon and I took the chance to do some hiking and biking. We started by going out to the Three Sisters peaks park, and hiked out to a neighboring peak. The best part was some fantastic views; to the right is me with a shot of the front range behind me. After a drive back home, during which we swung through the Red Rocks Amplitheater, we threw the bikes in the back. We drove to Washington Park in Denver and had a nice hour cycling.For tomorrow, I'm meeting up with Chris Warner and a few others to climb Skywalker coulior on South Arapahoe. On Wednesday, he and I will head out for some early morning multi-pitch, probably around the front range area.
The trip is going great, loving every second.
Wednesday, May 23, 2012
Made it to KY!
Dinner was a delish three bean chili. I thought I made a small amount, but it still wound up being enough for dinner and then today's lunch.
I woke up to the sun beating through my tent flap at 8:15. I had intended to go running in the morning, but since the tent was dry, I thought I'd just pack up and run in KY. After picking up a breakfast egg and biscuit sandwich at the gas station down the street from Seneca, I hit the road again.
Once into KY, Google took me through back roads with the best views ever. It was unbelievable! I stopped in the Red River Gorge national park (I think the Daniel Boone National Forest is its technical designation). Went trail running, passing the trail for Military Wall, and made my way up to some great overlooks on the Gray's Arch trail. On the way back, I came upon two hikers and scared them a bit as I raced up on them.
From there, it was to Miguel's! I arrived at 3:45 pm, after a total of 504 miles since leaving Olney. After setting up camp, you know what time it was: Pizza! Low and behold, the two hikers I scared happened to come in for dinner, so we joined tables and had a great time talking about local hikes and climbing and whatnot.Plan for tomorrow is to wake up and go for another run, shower, and then on to Bloomington to meet Kathryn for lunch. From there, I'm off to St. Louis to spend the night and Friday with Alex and Tera.
Tuesday, May 22, 2012
Westward!
The time has come: I leave today for Colorado. I will be spending Tuesday night in Seneca Rocks, WV, and then spend the next morning running some local trails. From there, I drive to the Red, spending Wednesday night there. Thursday will take me through Bloomington, IN to St. Louis, MO, and then spend Friday there. Saturday should see me arrive in Denver.
The general plan:
5/28 - 6/7: Climb with Chris W. around CO.
6/8 - 6/9: Climb/hike with Gordon R. around Denver/Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP)
6/10 - 6/17: Climb with Cristina P. around Denver/Boulder.
6/18: Fly to Seattle
6/19 - 6/21: Climb Shuksan in the North Cascades, WA with Ashley G.
6/23 - 6/26: Climb Rainier with Ashley G.
6/28: Fly back to CO.
6/29 - 7/6: Climb with Cristina P. around CO or the Grand Tetons, WY.
7/7: Start the drive back.
Wednesday, January 11, 2012
Mt. Washington, what fun!
Summary
Route: Odell's in Huntington Ravine. 2 Pitches Ice (Pitch one: easy ice of 30-50 degrees, 70 M with 2 – 3 ice screw placements; pitch two: moderate ice of 40 – 70 degrees, 30 M with one ice screw placement followed by 30 M of snow and rock, two rock placements (stoppers). 3 Pitches Rock/Mixed/Dry Tooling (each about 60 M, minimal placement needed, free solo feasible)
Getting there, but is there ice?
Leaving the DC area at 11:30 pm Saturday (12/17) night, my partner Mark and I were quite excited about the trip ahead. For Mark, this would be his first foray into alpine climbing and mountaineering, while for me this would be my first experience tackling technical ice and a winter mountaineering ascent. All things considered, it seemed we were an optimal pair for the trip: Mark's ice and rock experience coupled with my mountaineering experience created between us a strong skills foundation.
In preparation for the trip, we had been watching reports on weather and ice conditions, and were not encouraged. New England had been experiencing unseasonably warm weather all fall, and ice reports were offering little evidence of any freezing. Worried, we had even planned a back up trip to Canada if the ice wasn't in when we arrived. Lucky for us, this wasn't necessary.
We arrived in Conway at about 10:00 AM, heading straight for the EMS where Mark needed to pick up insulated water bottle holders and a map. Instead, he made an immediate beeline for their guides, knowing what they have to offer would be much more valuable than any map. However, the info we received was anything but promising: ice was not in, we'd be best off hiking or getting on some rock. Further, the forecasts had deteriorated, expecting building winds overnight and through our first full day (the 19th), only slowing during the day of the 20th, our second and last day. Slightly discouraged, we got some supplies in town and a Mount Washington map meant for trail hiking, resigned to the conditions. Not willing to give up on climbing completely, we did recon the climbing area near Conway that the EMS guide had pointed out on the maps. Cathedral Ledge looked like it has some interesting lines, but with our rock background, we weren't particularly impressed. Finally, it was time to head to the mountain.
We drove to the Pinkham Notch Visitor Center run by the AMC, arriving about 12:30 pm. We headed in to sign up for the Harvard Cabin, since reservations must be done in person at the desk. While signing in however, we got to talking with the AMC staff. To our amazement, against everything we heard, they were certain that the ice was in (at Huntington at least). Whether due to exhaustion or information overload however, we couldn't quite grasp what we were hearing, believing that it must be thin, early season ice that just formed from the sharp freeze they had the week before. Mark, with only a year of leading experience on ice, thought we would best sticking with our hiking plan. Indeed, as we packed in the AMC's packing room under the visitor center, we decided to leave the ropes and racks in the car, a decision we would regret.
Sure enough, after hiking the two miles from the notch to the cabin, the hut caretaker, Rich, informs us that there is some fat ice in Huntington, especially Odell's and Pinnacle. So we drop our stuff, turn around, and hike back to the car, grabbing the rock and ice racks. After a great time at Harvard Cabin and tired from the six miles that should have been two, we go to bed eager for Odell's.
To the summit, climb on!
We awake at 7 to the weather report coming over the radio: winds building all day, with winds 50-70 during the day, building to 80-90 overnight. Further, with a front moving in, there was the chance of snow in the evening. However, it seemed we would be a go for an attempt up Odell's, able to hike down via the Alpine Garden/Lion's Head if weather proved poor. With Mark ready to go a little late, we were set to leave at 10... only to find Mark had left the ropes in the car. OOPS! Pulling a quick audible, we decided to hike our ascent and descent lines to prepare for a dedicated attempt the next day, when the weather is supposed to be better. We hiked Lion's Head up to the Alpine Garden, were I was blown over flat on my side by gusts of wind around 65 mph! (FYI: The winds on Alpine Garden can be harsh around the Lion's Head formation, but about 100 meters past the rock, the trail is sheltered by the ridge line. Thus, if you can make it past that 100 M, you'll be out of the wind until the actual summit pyramid.) We hiked down to Harvard Cabin and from there to the Huntington Ravine Trail, gauging our approach. Ice looked great on Yale, Odell's, and Pinnacle, so we expected the next day to be a go. Finally, we had to hike back the car for our ropes. All in all, we put in 9 miles of hiking on our first full day.
Waking at 7 again, the weather was great: winds starting the day around 50 mph, dropping over the day to 30 mph by evening with clear conditions all day. We finished packing quickly, leaving the cabin at 830.
We got to Odell's around 10, took a food break and racked up. We started the ice at about 10:45, with Mark leading the ice.
His first pitch was primarily easy ice, 30 to 50 degree ice, with one 6 foot section of vertical ice in a beautiful dihedral. Mark protected the first pitch with two screws, climbing the full length of the 70 M rope (gives you a good idea of how easy it was). The second pitch was more difficult, with moderate ice, 40-70 degrees, making up the majority of climb. Here too was another 6 foot section of vertical ice. However, the ice on this second pitch was thinner, making it a little nerve-racking. On a few occasions, we sunk our ice axes into what appeared to be fat ice only to have a gusher erupt as we pulled out the picks. To avoid ice that had gotten early sun, we swung left on the second pitch, topping out onto some ice/snow/rock covered scree. From here, we followed the ridge line up to the Alpine Garden. Though we stayed roped up for the three pitches of rock scrambling and snow, with Mark placing a piece or two of rock pro as he went, I thought this overkill and advocated an unroped finish. Better safe than sorry I guess. Anyways, we topped out at Alpine Garden at about 2:45 and hustled towards the Lion's Head/Alpine Garden trail junction. We repacked our harnesses and then summited via the Lion's Head route. Hiked back down to Harvard Cabin and packed, getting to the car at something like 6:30 pm.
Ice conditions in Huntington: Odell's was fat at the base, getting thinner as you go. The right side of the gulley looked thicker, but is much steeper and gets morning sun (make sure any attempt on this ice comes after a few days of solid freeze and climb in low temps, my two cents). Even at the bottom, you could hear the water running underneath of the fat ice though.
Route: Odell's in Huntington Ravine. 2 Pitches Ice (Pitch one: easy ice of 30-50 degrees, 70 M with 2 – 3 ice screw placements; pitch two: moderate ice of 40 – 70 degrees, 30 M with one ice screw placement followed by 30 M of snow and rock, two rock placements (stoppers). 3 Pitches Rock/Mixed/Dry Tooling (each about 60 M, minimal placement needed, free solo feasible)
Getting there, but is there ice?
Leaving the DC area at 11:30 pm Saturday (12/17) night, my partner Mark and I were quite excited about the trip ahead. For Mark, this would be his first foray into alpine climbing and mountaineering, while for me this would be my first experience tackling technical ice and a winter mountaineering ascent. All things considered, it seemed we were an optimal pair for the trip: Mark's ice and rock experience coupled with my mountaineering experience created between us a strong skills foundation.
In preparation for the trip, we had been watching reports on weather and ice conditions, and were not encouraged. New England had been experiencing unseasonably warm weather all fall, and ice reports were offering little evidence of any freezing. Worried, we had even planned a back up trip to Canada if the ice wasn't in when we arrived. Lucky for us, this wasn't necessary.
We arrived in Conway at about 10:00 AM, heading straight for the EMS where Mark needed to pick up insulated water bottle holders and a map. Instead, he made an immediate beeline for their guides, knowing what they have to offer would be much more valuable than any map. However, the info we received was anything but promising: ice was not in, we'd be best off hiking or getting on some rock. Further, the forecasts had deteriorated, expecting building winds overnight and through our first full day (the 19th), only slowing during the day of the 20th, our second and last day. Slightly discouraged, we got some supplies in town and a Mount Washington map meant for trail hiking, resigned to the conditions. Not willing to give up on climbing completely, we did recon the climbing area near Conway that the EMS guide had pointed out on the maps. Cathedral Ledge looked like it has some interesting lines, but with our rock background, we weren't particularly impressed. Finally, it was time to head to the mountain.
We drove to the Pinkham Notch Visitor Center run by the AMC, arriving about 12:30 pm. We headed in to sign up for the Harvard Cabin, since reservations must be done in person at the desk. While signing in however, we got to talking with the AMC staff. To our amazement, against everything we heard, they were certain that the ice was in (at Huntington at least). Whether due to exhaustion or information overload however, we couldn't quite grasp what we were hearing, believing that it must be thin, early season ice that just formed from the sharp freeze they had the week before. Mark, with only a year of leading experience on ice, thought we would best sticking with our hiking plan. Indeed, as we packed in the AMC's packing room under the visitor center, we decided to leave the ropes and racks in the car, a decision we would regret.
Sure enough, after hiking the two miles from the notch to the cabin, the hut caretaker, Rich, informs us that there is some fat ice in Huntington, especially Odell's and Pinnacle. So we drop our stuff, turn around, and hike back to the car, grabbing the rock and ice racks. After a great time at Harvard Cabin and tired from the six miles that should have been two, we go to bed eager for Odell's.
To the summit, climb on!
We awake at 7 to the weather report coming over the radio: winds building all day, with winds 50-70 during the day, building to 80-90 overnight. Further, with a front moving in, there was the chance of snow in the evening. However, it seemed we would be a go for an attempt up Odell's, able to hike down via the Alpine Garden/Lion's Head if weather proved poor. With Mark ready to go a little late, we were set to leave at 10... only to find Mark had left the ropes in the car. OOPS! Pulling a quick audible, we decided to hike our ascent and descent lines to prepare for a dedicated attempt the next day, when the weather is supposed to be better. We hiked Lion's Head up to the Alpine Garden, were I was blown over flat on my side by gusts of wind around 65 mph! (FYI: The winds on Alpine Garden can be harsh around the Lion's Head formation, but about 100 meters past the rock, the trail is sheltered by the ridge line. Thus, if you can make it past that 100 M, you'll be out of the wind until the actual summit pyramid.) We hiked down to Harvard Cabin and from there to the Huntington Ravine Trail, gauging our approach. Ice looked great on Yale, Odell's, and Pinnacle, so we expected the next day to be a go. Finally, we had to hike back the car for our ropes. All in all, we put in 9 miles of hiking on our first full day.
Waking at 7 again, the weather was great: winds starting the day around 50 mph, dropping over the day to 30 mph by evening with clear conditions all day. We finished packing quickly, leaving the cabin at 830.
We got to Odell's around 10, took a food break and racked up. We started the ice at about 10:45, with Mark leading the ice.
His first pitch was primarily easy ice, 30 to 50 degree ice, with one 6 foot section of vertical ice in a beautiful dihedral. Mark protected the first pitch with two screws, climbing the full length of the 70 M rope (gives you a good idea of how easy it was). The second pitch was more difficult, with moderate ice, 40-70 degrees, making up the majority of climb. Here too was another 6 foot section of vertical ice. However, the ice on this second pitch was thinner, making it a little nerve-racking. On a few occasions, we sunk our ice axes into what appeared to be fat ice only to have a gusher erupt as we pulled out the picks. To avoid ice that had gotten early sun, we swung left on the second pitch, topping out onto some ice/snow/rock covered scree. From here, we followed the ridge line up to the Alpine Garden. Though we stayed roped up for the three pitches of rock scrambling and snow, with Mark placing a piece or two of rock pro as he went, I thought this overkill and advocated an unroped finish. Better safe than sorry I guess. Anyways, we topped out at Alpine Garden at about 2:45 and hustled towards the Lion's Head/Alpine Garden trail junction. We repacked our harnesses and then summited via the Lion's Head route. Hiked back down to Harvard Cabin and packed, getting to the car at something like 6:30 pm.
Ice conditions in Huntington: Odell's was fat at the base, getting thinner as you go. The right side of the gulley looked thicker, but is much steeper and gets morning sun (make sure any attempt on this ice comes after a few days of solid freeze and climb in low temps, my two cents). Even at the bottom, you could hear the water running underneath of the fat ice though.
Friday, December 16, 2011
Mount Washington, here we come!
Mark and I leave on Saturday for New Hampshire! We're going to drive there and stay at the hut at the foot of Tuckerman Ravine. Conditions sound pretty typical for Washington: bitterly cold and windy. Highs of 22 and 10 degrees F while we're there, but with winds of 75+ mph will create a windchill of -20 - -30 degrees F!
Been getting in the gym and running a bit more regularly to get ready. Hoped on an 11a on one of the gym's arches; pulled the arch clean on my first attempt, but fell on a nasty bat wing. Worked it again the next day and pulled the bat wing only to blow it at the bolt (the crimp I clipped off last time was just not going to happen with my waning finger strength).
Been getting in the gym and running a bit more regularly to get ready. Hoped on an 11a on one of the gym's arches; pulled the arch clean on my first attempt, but fell on a nasty bat wing. Worked it again the next day and pulled the bat wing only to blow it at the bolt (the crimp I clipped off last time was just not going to happen with my waning finger strength).
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