Mt. Washington, what fun!

Summary
Route: Odell's in Huntington Ravine. 2 Pitches Ice (Pitch one: easy ice of 30-50 degrees, 70 M with 2 – 3 ice screw placements; pitch two: moderate ice of 40 – 70 degrees, 30 M with one ice screw placement followed by 30 M of snow and rock, two rock placements (stoppers). 3 Pitches Rock/Mixed/Dry Tooling (each about 60 M, minimal placement needed, free solo feasible)

Getting there, but is there ice?
Leaving the DC area at 11:30 pm Saturday (12/17) night, my partner Mark and I were quite excited about the trip ahead. For Mark, this would be his first foray into alpine climbing and mountaineering, while for me this would be my first experience tackling technical ice and a winter mountaineering ascent. All things considered, it seemed we were an optimal pair for the trip: Mark's ice and rock experience coupled with my mountaineering experience created between us a strong skills foundation.

In preparation for the trip, we had been watching reports on weather and ice conditions, and were not encouraged. New England had been experiencing unseasonably warm weather all fall, and ice reports were offering little evidence of any freezing. Worried, we had even planned a back up trip to Canada if the ice wasn't in when we arrived. Lucky for us, this wasn't necessary.

We arrived in Conway at about 10:00 AM, heading straight for the EMS where Mark needed to pick up insulated water bottle holders and a map. Instead, he made an immediate beeline for their guides, knowing what they have to offer would be much more valuable than any map. However, the info we received was anything but promising: ice was not in, we'd be best off hiking or getting on some rock. Further, the forecasts had deteriorated, expecting building winds overnight and through our first full day (the 19th), only slowing during the day of the 20th, our second and last day. Slightly discouraged, we got some supplies in town and a Mount Washington map meant for trail hiking, resigned to the conditions. Not willing to give up on climbing completely, we did recon the climbing area near Conway that the EMS guide had pointed out on the maps. Cathedral Ledge looked like it has some interesting lines, but with our rock background, we weren't particularly impressed. Finally, it was time to head to the mountain.

We drove to the Pinkham Notch Visitor Center run by the AMC, arriving about 12:30 pm. We headed in to sign up for the Harvard Cabin, since reservations must be done in person at the desk. While signing in however, we got to talking with the AMC staff. To our amazement, against everything we heard, they were certain that the ice was in (at Huntington at least). Whether due to exhaustion or information overload however, we couldn't quite grasp what we were hearing, believing that it must be thin, early season ice that just formed from the sharp freeze they had the week before. Mark, with only a year of leading experience on ice, thought we would best sticking with our hiking plan. Indeed, as we packed in the AMC's packing room under the visitor center, we decided to leave the ropes and racks in the car, a decision we would regret.

Sure enough, after hiking the two miles from the notch to the cabin, the hut caretaker, Rich, informs us that there is some fat ice in Huntington, especially Odell's and Pinnacle. So we drop our stuff, turn around, and hike back to the car, grabbing the rock and ice racks. After a great time at Harvard Cabin and tired from the six miles that should have been two, we go to bed eager for Odell's.

To the summit, climb on!
We awake at 7 to the weather report coming over the radio: winds building all day, with winds 50-70 during the day, building to 80-90 overnight. Further, with a front moving in, there was the chance of snow in the evening. However, it seemed we would be a go for an attempt up Odell's, able to hike down via the Alpine Garden/Lion's Head if weather proved poor. With Mark ready to go a little late, we were set to leave at 10... only to find Mark had left the ropes in the car. OOPS! Pulling a quick audible, we decided to hike our ascent and descent lines to prepare for a dedicated attempt the next day, when the weather is supposed to be better. We hiked Lion's Head up to the Alpine Garden, were I was blown over flat on my side by gusts of wind around 65 mph! (FYI: The winds on Alpine Garden can be harsh around the Lion's Head formation, but about 100 meters past the rock, the trail is sheltered by the ridge line. Thus, if you can make it past that 100 M, you'll be out of the wind until the actual summit pyramid.) We hiked down to Harvard Cabin and from there to the Huntington Ravine Trail, gauging our approach. Ice looked great on Yale, Odell's, and Pinnacle, so we expected the next day to be a go. Finally, we had to hike back the car for our ropes. All in all, we put in 9 miles of hiking on our first full day.

Waking at 7 again, the weather was great: winds starting the day around 50 mph, dropping over the day to 30 mph by evening with clear conditions all day. We finished packing quickly, leaving the cabin at 830.

We got to Odell's around 10, took a food break and racked up. We started the ice at about 10:45, with Mark leading the ice.

His first pitch was primarily easy ice, 30 to 50 degree ice, with one 6 foot section of vertical ice in a beautiful dihedral. Mark protected the first pitch with two screws, climbing the full length of the 70 M rope (gives you a good idea of how easy it was). The second pitch was more difficult, with moderate ice, 40-70 degrees, making up the majority of climb. Here too was another 6 foot section of vertical ice. However, the ice on this second pitch was thinner, making it a little nerve-racking. On a few occasions, we sunk our ice axes into what appeared to be fat ice only to have a gusher erupt as we pulled out the picks. To avoid ice that had gotten early sun, we swung left on the second pitch, topping out onto some ice/snow/rock covered scree. From here, we followed the ridge line up to the Alpine Garden. Though we stayed roped up for the three pitches of rock scrambling and snow, with Mark placing a piece or two of rock pro as he went, I thought this overkill and advocated an unroped finish. Better safe than sorry I guess. Anyways, we topped out at Alpine Garden at about 2:45 and hustled towards the Lion's Head/Alpine Garden trail junction. We repacked our harnesses and then summited via the Lion's Head route. Hiked back down to Harvard Cabin and packed, getting to the car at something like 6:30 pm.

Ice conditions in Huntington: Odell's was fat at the base, getting thinner as you go. The right side of the gulley looked thicker, but is much steeper and gets morning sun (make sure any attempt on this ice comes after a few days of solid freeze and climb in low temps, my two cents). Even at the bottom, you could hear the water running underneath of the fat ice though.

Mount Washington, here we come!

Mark and I leave on Saturday for New Hampshire! We're going to drive there and stay at the hut at the foot of Tuckerman Ravine. Conditions sound pretty typical for Washington: bitterly cold and windy. Highs of 22 and 10 degrees F while we're there, but with winds of 75+ mph will create a windchill of -20 - -30 degrees F!

Been getting in the gym and running a bit more regularly to get ready. Hoped on an 11a on one of the gym's arches; pulled the arch clean on my first attempt, but fell on a nasty bat wing. Worked it again the next day and pulled the bat wing only to blow it at the bolt (the crimp I clipped off last time was just not going to happen with my waning finger strength).

So what's happened?

A quick itinerary of climbing adventures since my Ecuador trip:

The Red River Gorge: I made two trips out to the beautiful Red. With Mark and a bunch of others from the ET community, I spent a week in March climbing. After Mark and Ed fixed my lead head (no take Tuesday, whipper Wednesday), I on-sighted a couple of 10c's and just had a blast. Had another great trip in June with Peter from ET, though I only on-sighted up to the 10a on this trip. The terror of the trip was getting my car stuck on the access road... there's a story I will not re-live.

The New River Gorge: To the New, I had one trip with Alex. It was a good time, though I learned a valuable lesson: the New is stiff, very, very stiff. On-sighted a 10a and had a lot of fun on some easier climbs around Orange Oswald.

Seneca Rocks: A new favorite? Though I have yet to lead trad yet, this was a blast. I made two trips this summer, both with Mark. We had a little trouble staying on-route with the first trip, but that just made it a little more difficult. Topping out on the summit was pretty interesting, a little heady. Second trip was a little rough with the weather; we had to do a quick repel after about 6 climbs as some terrible weather moved in. All in all though, the lines here are just beautiful.

Franklin Rocks: A fun little crag on the other side of Seneca. Did a day trip with Chris and enjoyed quite a few nice lines. The rock is just really weird; feels like your grabbing soft chalk blocks, and there's a bit of dirt. Regardless though, it is a fun day trip well worth the three hours.

Where things are now...

It has been too long since I've been on a summit, but that should change soon.

This winter, I will be doing a winter ascent of Mount Washington (1917m). While it is not impressive in its height, I will be doing a mixed ascent, climbing an ice route for much of the climb up Tuckerman or Huntington Ravine. Add Mt. Washington's notoriously foul weather, and this should be a great time. Look for updated plans as we move close to the 12/18 trip start date.


http://www.summitpost.org/mount-washington/150248

A great training climb, maybe there's something planned?

Iliniza Norte, 5126m (16,818 ft)

With Cotopaxi done, Parofes and I had planned Cayambe. However, illness derailed that plan for Parofes. After talking with Dan, I decided to try Iliniza Norte.

We hiked in after getting dropped off at 7:15 am. It was a great day and we had beautiful views of the mountains during the approach. The whole hike in we saw dangerous clouds on Sur, but our target, Norte, was cloud free! The only concern was the fresh snow, which can make what is a technically straight-forward and fairly easy climb much more dangerous.


After a long approach, we began the ascent. After about an hour and a half, we reached the Paso del Muerte (Death´s pass, or the Pass of Death). Normally not all that dangerous, the fresh snow and ice meant we had to get out our crampons, snow boots, and ice axes. This was a fun section, requiring us to tread carefully.

I made it through this section and then quickly rushed by another group begining their descent. And then I was there, the summit! The photo below is looking down the rock ridge from the summit.

But where was Parofes? Since he had been ill, he had gone a little slower. As we weren´t roped in, I had managed to get a bit ahead of him. I waited on the summit until clouds pushed me off out of concern over a storm. I had to descend looking for him, which was a little harrowing in the white-out conditions of the cloud. I was happy to find him back near the start of the Paso del Muerte, but I was concerned as to what had happened. It turns out that group I passed had been kicking loose all kinds of snow, ice, and rock, making for dangerous falling debris. The result, he couldn´t summit! The photo below is him climbing back up the Paso del Muerte in the clouds.

A little bummed by that, we descended out of concern for the soft snow and ice and the changing weather. Then it was back to Quito for a big dinner at Tio Billy´s!

Cotopaxi Successfully Summited

Cotopaxi was quite the ordeal, a butt-kicking really.

We took the van in the morning of the 13th. We could see the mountain on approach and had to stop for photos several times.

This mountian was to be the highlight for us, and we were all in high spirits. We hiked up to the refuge, which was no small feat! We had our large packs and were at 4810m! This first day was spent resting, laying in bed once we got up there. I´d like to note here our snack for that day: bread with cheese and mustard. Can I say AWESOME?

The next day was an early rise, as we had to get to Snow School. After a breakfast of granola and blackberry yogurt, we hiked out onto the snow at the base of the glaciar. We practiced walking as a rope team, self-arrest, and other ice skills during the morning. It was then back to bed at about 10am, resting until lunch at 1pm. Finally we rested again until dinner at 5pm, another meal which deserves note: pasta with tomato, ricotta, and chestnut pesto. Delish.

After dinner, it was rest time until our summit push. The altitude has not been too much of an issue for me: I was eating well and sleeping without much difficulty. When I wasn´t sleeping, I was reading Ghandi´s autobiography, possibly a new favorite book! But I digress. We awoke at 12:15am, having planned on a 1 am start since we had been crushing all our other climbs and expected to make a great pace. It took us 30 minutes to suit up, getting all our layers on, boots, gaiters, and final packing of our bags. We then took breakfast, eating some danish and drinking hot, hot coffee. Finally, we were off!

We were one of the last teams out, leaving at 1:10 am, but as we proceeded unroped on the snow up to the glaciar, we began to overtake multiple teams. We reached the glaciar quickly, running into a group of about three teams at the base of the steep snow and ice that marked the begining of the glaciar. They were getting their ropes out and preping the team for the real start of the climb. Instead of setting down with the teams there, we made our way up the steep ascent and roped in at the top. This enabled us to pass these teams. A quick change of plans resulted in Tim and Stephan being roped in with our Ecuadorian guide, Ronaldo, and Dan and I operating as a two person rope team.

We ascended the glaciar in the dark of night, only able to see as far as our headlamps would show us. During the descent, I realized this to be a good thing: I had no idea the degree of exposure on some sections! Three specific locations are worth mention. The first was an ice wall that we had to traverese the base of. To do so, we had to walk with our sides to the wall along an ice ledge about six to eight inches wide with a 75 degree slope to the side. The second site was pretty much identical to the first. The third site was a steep ice climb, requiring us to front-point our crampons into the ice and use our axes for hand grips. The photo below is of us doing the same section, during the descent.

And finally, we were there. Exausted and freezing (from the start I had been fighting frost bite on my toes, and then on my hands), we reached the summit. What a view! We were the first team to ascend that morning, having passed all of them on the ascent, and our arrival was timed perfectly to the rising sun! A blistering pace, we summited at 5:50 am, after 4 hours and 40 minutes.


The descent was painful: as I regained the feeling in my feet, I also began to feel the big blisters on my pinky toes. Obviously, I was a very happy camper to make it back to the refuge!

Rucu's Direct Route and the Ventana del Muerte

Now here was an adventure! After taking the teleferico up and hiking to the rock base (see previous post on Rucu for details of that trek), we busted out our ropes and harness for a very exposed climb. Dan climbed ahead, fixing gear (protection to hold the rope to rock in case someone fell) for the rest of us. We then used prusicks (a kind of knot that can slide one way, so that if you fall the knot and rope hold you) to follow. As I had the most experience climbing, I got to climb last and clean all the protection as I went (essential removing the gear from the rocks and taking it with me, also coiling the rope as I climb). THIS WAS SO COOL! And then we get to the venta del muerte (window of death), which was just so freaking awesome (see the photo below!).

All in all, we had a great summit. Today is rest day in Quito, tomorrow we leave early for Cotopaxi! That means no more news until I get back late on Saturday!